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Stories, and the people behind them

Field notes from travellers and creators, alongside the emperors, poets and monks whose names are still on the map.

Five days, four cities, one rail line

A first-timer's route from Zhengzhou to Kaifeng, with the timing that actually works.

Mara Lindqvist · Contributing editor

Cliff roads, guesthouse breakfasts and the two hours before the tour buses arrive.

South of the Yellow River the landscape turns green, wet and slow.

Contributor notes are edited for length and clarity. Sponsored trips are labelled at the top.Pitch a story